Presse et revues
76 pages
Titre : La Soierie de Lyon : organe du Syndicat des fabricants de soieries de Lyon ["puis" revue technique des industries de la soie, éditée par le Syndicat des fabricants de soieries de Lyon "puis" revue mensuelle des industries de la soie]
Auteur : Syndicat des fabricants de soieries de Lyon. Auteur du texte
Éditeur : [s.n.] (Lyon)
Date d'édition : 1932-10-01
Notice du catalogue : http://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb328705821
Type : texte texte
Type : publication en série imprimée publication en série imprimée
Langue : français
Format : Nombre total de vues : 29448 Nombre total de vues : 29448
Description : 01 octobre 1932 01 octobre 1932
Description : 1932/10/01 (A15,N10)-1932/10/31. 1932/10/01 (A15,N10)-1932/10/31.
Description : Collection numérique : Bibliographie de la presse... Collection numérique : Bibliographie de la presse française politique et d'information générale
Description : Collection numérique : BIPFPIG69 Collection numérique : BIPFPIG69
Description : Collection numérique : Fonds régional :... Collection numérique : Fonds régional : Rhône-Alpes
Droits : Consultable en ligne
Identifiant : ark:/12148/bpt6k5693389n
Source : Bibliothèque nationale de France, département Droit, économie, politique, JO-60999
Conservation numérique : Bibliothèque nationale de France
Date de mise en ligne : 01/12/2010
254 LA SOIERIE DE LYON
If the passing woman is luminous
and sprightly, the man remains
dull. Let us concède that we
are less pleasant to look at than
the weaker sex, which is not cer-
tain, which is not true either
among the mammalia or birds,
which was not true in Antiquity,
nor in the Middle Ages, nor
under the late régime, and began
to be true only with the reign of
modem textile stuffs. Let us
concède it ! Is it a reason to
make us still more ugly ? Would
it not be one for takmg more
pains with us ? And since silk
has saved the gracefulness of
French women, why would it not
revive that of French men ?
Note that our smartly-dressed
men already wear silk. Do they
not wear silk pants, even pyjamas
or indoor costumes in faille lined
with satin ? Before the war, a
merchant in la rue de la Paix,
Charvet, who no longer exists,
used to supply a few voluptuous
people with bed-sheets in black,
green, mauve, or violet silk. But
that is a matter either of excep-
tional excentricities or hidden
luxury from which the spectator
profits little. It is only in the
vaudevilles at the Palais-Royal
that lovers go walking in sky-blue
drawers along hôtel lobbies. In
real life, this gallant vision is
reserved for a strict intimity,
and in the streets we see ventu-
ring forth only a gentleman hea-
vily trousered m woollen cloth.
Why should what is judged to
be right for the handkerchief,
neck-tie, and socks, be judged to
be wrong for the whole suit ?
Because a suit would wear out
more quickly ? As though a
black woollen suit does not be-
come shiny when worn too long !
It is a mère question of launching
the fashion. Who is the re-
nowned tailor who will give the 1
lead ? (
This recalls to my mind a s
remark about M. Worth, senior, i
the Parisian couturier who died a i
few years ago, uncle to the one I
who is at présent managing the !
celebrated firm, and himself a
son of the founder of the dynasty.
Of this first Worth, the second
Worth was speaking with filial
admiration :
« My father, he said to me, was
started off by the Empress Eu-
génie, to whose résidence I re-
member having gone with him
when a child. He went to show
her the magnificent weaves he
had just ordered in Lyons. For
before him, the great Iadies under
Louis-Philippe ordered only two
dresses a year, one in black silk
for winter, one in puce (brownish
purple) silk for summer. That
sufficed them... »
And, leaning over to the
window through which you
perceived the Vendôme column,
he added :
« In true justice, it is not Na-
poléon who ought to hâve his
statue up there, it is my father, for
he is the man who created la
rue de la Paix ! »
Worth, in this case, would
hâve deserved to hâve a statue
in Lyons also. Who then is the
man among our mens tailors who
will deserve his bust in Place
Bellecour, for having had the cou-
rage to bring out the silk dress-
suit for the society man ?
MAURICE DE WALEFFE.
extravagancias 6 cosas excepcio-
nales 6 de un lujo oculto del que
el expectador no se aprovecha.
Solo en los sainetes del Palais-
Royal, se pueden ver â los amantes,
pasearse por los corredores, en
calzoncillos de color azul cielo.
En la vida real, esta vision ga-
lante esta reservada para una
estricta intimidad, y en las calles
solo vemos salir, â la gente con
gruesos pantalones de pafïo in-
glés. c Por que, lo que se juzga
bueno para un panuelo, una cor-
bata y calcetines, séria malo para
el traje entero ? Porque un traje,
se romperia mas pronto y dura-
ria menos. Y un traje de pafïo
negro, también se hace lustroso
en cuanto se le lleva algûn tiem-
po. No es mas que una moda que
esta por lanzar. c Cual es el gran
sastre que tomarâ la iniciativa ?
Esto me recuerda una palabra
del anciano Sr. Worth, el costu-
rero parisien, que muno hace
algunos anos, tio del que dirige
actualmente la célèbre casa y él
mismo hijo del fundador de la
dinastia. De ese primer Worth,
el segundo Worth, hablaba con
una admiracion filial.
« Mi padre, me decia, ha sido
lanzado por la Emperatriz Eugé-
nie, â cuya casa recuerdo haberle
acompanado un dia siendo nino.
Iba â someterle tejidos magnificos
que acababa de pedir â Lyon.
Antes, las grandes damas de
Louis-Philippe solo pedian dos
trajes por afïo, uno de seda negra
para el invierno, otro de seda de
color pardo obscuro para el ve-
rano. Esto era suficiente... »
Y asomândose â la ventana por
donde se apercebia la columna
Vendôme, anadio :
Justo séria, que en vez de
Napoléon, estuviese alli, la esta-
tua de mi padre, pues él fué quien
creo la calle de la Paz.
Worth, mereceria pues, tener
también una estatua en Lyon.
- i Cual es ahora el sastre para
; caballeros, que merecerâ, que su
. busto esté sobre la plaza Belle-
cour, teniendo el atrevimiento de
, lanzar el traje de seda para el
i caballero élégante ?
- MAURICE DE WALEFFE.
If the passing woman is luminous
and sprightly, the man remains
dull. Let us concède that we
are less pleasant to look at than
the weaker sex, which is not cer-
tain, which is not true either
among the mammalia or birds,
which was not true in Antiquity,
nor in the Middle Ages, nor
under the late régime, and began
to be true only with the reign of
modem textile stuffs. Let us
concède it ! Is it a reason to
make us still more ugly ? Would
it not be one for takmg more
pains with us ? And since silk
has saved the gracefulness of
French women, why would it not
revive that of French men ?
Note that our smartly-dressed
men already wear silk. Do they
not wear silk pants, even pyjamas
or indoor costumes in faille lined
with satin ? Before the war, a
merchant in la rue de la Paix,
Charvet, who no longer exists,
used to supply a few voluptuous
people with bed-sheets in black,
green, mauve, or violet silk. But
that is a matter either of excep-
tional excentricities or hidden
luxury from which the spectator
profits little. It is only in the
vaudevilles at the Palais-Royal
that lovers go walking in sky-blue
drawers along hôtel lobbies. In
real life, this gallant vision is
reserved for a strict intimity,
and in the streets we see ventu-
ring forth only a gentleman hea-
vily trousered m woollen cloth.
Why should what is judged to
be right for the handkerchief,
neck-tie, and socks, be judged to
be wrong for the whole suit ?
Because a suit would wear out
more quickly ? As though a
black woollen suit does not be-
come shiny when worn too long !
It is a mère question of launching
the fashion. Who is the re-
nowned tailor who will give the 1
lead ? (
This recalls to my mind a s
remark about M. Worth, senior, i
the Parisian couturier who died a i
few years ago, uncle to the one I
who is at présent managing the !
celebrated firm, and himself a
son of the founder of the dynasty.
Of this first Worth, the second
Worth was speaking with filial
admiration :
« My father, he said to me, was
started off by the Empress Eu-
génie, to whose résidence I re-
member having gone with him
when a child. He went to show
her the magnificent weaves he
had just ordered in Lyons. For
before him, the great Iadies under
Louis-Philippe ordered only two
dresses a year, one in black silk
for winter, one in puce (brownish
purple) silk for summer. That
sufficed them... »
And, leaning over to the
window through which you
perceived the Vendôme column,
he added :
« In true justice, it is not Na-
poléon who ought to hâve his
statue up there, it is my father, for
he is the man who created la
rue de la Paix ! »
Worth, in this case, would
hâve deserved to hâve a statue
in Lyons also. Who then is the
man among our mens tailors who
will deserve his bust in Place
Bellecour, for having had the cou-
rage to bring out the silk dress-
suit for the society man ?
MAURICE DE WALEFFE.
extravagancias 6 cosas excepcio-
nales 6 de un lujo oculto del que
el expectador no se aprovecha.
Solo en los sainetes del Palais-
Royal, se pueden ver â los amantes,
pasearse por los corredores, en
calzoncillos de color azul cielo.
En la vida real, esta vision ga-
lante esta reservada para una
estricta intimidad, y en las calles
solo vemos salir, â la gente con
gruesos pantalones de pafïo in-
glés. c Por que, lo que se juzga
bueno para un panuelo, una cor-
bata y calcetines, séria malo para
el traje entero ? Porque un traje,
se romperia mas pronto y dura-
ria menos. Y un traje de pafïo
negro, también se hace lustroso
en cuanto se le lleva algûn tiem-
po. No es mas que una moda que
esta por lanzar. c Cual es el gran
sastre que tomarâ la iniciativa ?
Esto me recuerda una palabra
del anciano Sr. Worth, el costu-
rero parisien, que muno hace
algunos anos, tio del que dirige
actualmente la célèbre casa y él
mismo hijo del fundador de la
dinastia. De ese primer Worth,
el segundo Worth, hablaba con
una admiracion filial.
« Mi padre, me decia, ha sido
lanzado por la Emperatriz Eugé-
nie, â cuya casa recuerdo haberle
acompanado un dia siendo nino.
Iba â someterle tejidos magnificos
que acababa de pedir â Lyon.
Antes, las grandes damas de
Louis-Philippe solo pedian dos
trajes por afïo, uno de seda negra
para el invierno, otro de seda de
color pardo obscuro para el ve-
rano. Esto era suficiente... »
Y asomândose â la ventana por
donde se apercebia la columna
Vendôme, anadio :
Justo séria, que en vez de
Napoléon, estuviese alli, la esta-
tua de mi padre, pues él fué quien
creo la calle de la Paz.
Worth, mereceria pues, tener
también una estatua en Lyon.
- i Cual es ahora el sastre para
; caballeros, que merecerâ, que su
. busto esté sobre la plaza Belle-
cour, teniendo el atrevimiento de
, lanzar el traje de seda para el
i caballero élégante ?
- MAURICE DE WALEFFE.
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