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Title : A residence in France, with an excursion up the Rhine, and a second visit to Switzerland / by J. Fenimore Cooper,...

Author : Cooper, James Fenimore (1789-1851)

Publisher : Baudru (Paris)

Date of publication : 1836

Subject : France -- Descriptions et voyages -- 19e siècle

Subject : Belgique -- Descriptions et voyages -- 19e siècle

Subject : Allemagne -- Descriptions et voyages -- 19e siècle

Subject : Suisse -- Descriptions et voyages -- 19e siècle

Type : monographie imprimée

Language : English

Format : XII-320 p. ; in-8

Format : application/pdf

Copyright : domaine public

Identifier : ark:/12148/bpt6k1029376

Source : Bibliothèque nationale de France, département Littérature et art, Z-32628

Relation : http://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb373083505/description

Provenance : bnf.fr

Description : Collection : Collection of ancient and modern British authors ; 144

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Table of contents
    CONTENTS.
      
      
    LETTER I.
      
    Influence of the late Revolution in France. - General Lafayette. - Sketch of his Private Life. - My visits to him. - His opinion of Louis XVI. - Mr. Morris and Mr. Crawford. - Duplicity of Louis XVIII. - Charles X. - Marie Antoinette. - Legitimacy of the Duc de Bordeaux. - Discovery of the Plot of 1822. - Lafayette's conduct on that occasion. - A negro Spy. - General Knyphausen. - Louis-Philippe and Lafayette. - My visit to Court. - The King, the Queen, Madame Adelaide, and the Princesses. - Marshal Jourdan. - The Duke of Orleans. - Interview with the King. -" Adieu l'Amerique". - Conversation with Lafayette. - The Juste Milieu. - Monarchy not inconsistent with Republican Institutions. - Party in favour of the Duc de Bordeaux
    1
      
    LETTER II.
      
    The Cholera in Paris. - Its frightful ravages. - Desertion of the city. - My determination to remain. - Deaths in the higher classes. - Unexpected arrival and retreat. - Praiseworthy conduct of the Authorities. - The Cholera caricatured! - Invitation from an English General. - Atmospherical appearance denoting the arrival of the Cholera. - Lord Fitzgerald. - Dinner at the house of Madame de E-
    25
      
    LETTER III.
      
    Insecurity of the Governmnet. - Louis-Philippe and the Pear. - Caricatures. - Ugliness of the Public Men of France. - The Duke de Valmy. - Care-worn aspect of Society under the New Regime. - Controversy in France respecting the Cost of Government in America. - Conduct of American Agents in Europe
    32
      
    LETTER IV.
      
    Gradual disappearance of the Cholera. - Death of M. Casimir Perier. - His Funeral. - Funeral of General Lamarque. - Magnificent Military Escort. - The Duc de Fitzjames. - An Alarm. - First symptoms of popular Revolt. - Scene on the Pont Royal. - Charge on the people by a body of cavalry. - TheSommations. - General Lafayette and the BonnetRouge. - Popular Prejudices in France, England, and America. - Contest in the Quartier Montmartre. - The Place Louis XVI. - A frightened Sentinel. - PicturesqueBivouac of troops in the Carrousel. - Critical situtation. - Night-view from the Pont des Arts. - Appearance of the Streets on the following morning. - England an enemy to Liberty. - Affair at the Porte St. Denis. - Procession of Louis-philippe through the streets. - Contest in the Rue St. Méry. - Sudden Panic. - Terror of a national Guard and a young Conscript. - Dinner with a Courtier. - Suppression of the Revolt
    38
      
    LETTER V.
      
    National Guards in the Court of the Palace. - Unclaimed Dead in the Morgue. - View of the Scene of Action. - A blundering Artillerist. - Singular Spectacle. - The Machinations of the Government. - Martial Law. - Violations of the Charter. - Laughable Scene in the Carrousel. - A refractory Private of the National Guard
    59
      
    LETTER VI.
      
    Aspect of Paris. - Visit to Lafayette. - His demeanour. - His account of the commencement of the Revolt. - Machinations of the Police. - Character of Lafayette. - His remarkable expression to General. - Conversation on the Revolution of July. - TheDoctrinaires. - Popular Sympathy in England and on the Rhine. - Lafayette's dismissal from the command of the National Guards. - The Duke of Orleans and his Friends. - Military Tribunals in Paris. - The Citizen King in the Streets. - Obliteration of theFleur-de-lis. - The Royal Equipage. - The Duke of Brunswick in Paris. - His forcible Removal from France. - His Reception in Switzerland. - A ludicrous Mistake
    65
      
    LETTER VII.
      
    Public Dinner. - Incosiderate Impulses of Americans. - Rambles in Paris. - The Churches of Paris. - View from the leads of Notre Dame. - The Place Royale. - The Bridges. - Progress of the Public Works. - The Palaces of the Louvre and the Tuileries. - Royal Enclosures in the Gardens of the Tuileries. - Public Edifices. - Private Hotels and Gardens. - My Apartments in the house of the Montmorencies. - Our other Residences. - Noble Abodes in Paris. - Comparative Expense of Living in Paris and New York. - American Shopkeepers, and those of Europe
    81
      
    LETTER VIII.
      
    Preparations for leaving Paris. - Travelling arrangements. - Our Route. - TheChateau of Ecouen. - The Croisée. - Senlis. - Peronne. - Cambray. - Arrival at the Frontier. - Change in the National Character. - Mons. - Brussels. - A Fête. - The Picture Gallery. - Probable Partition of Belgium
    97
      
    LETTER IX.
      
    Malines. - Its Collection of Pictures. - Antwerp. - The Cathedral. - A Flemish Quack. - Flemish Names. - The Picture Gallery at Antwerp. - Mr. Wapper's Carvings in Wood. - Mr. Van Lankeren's Pictures.- The Boulevards et Brussels. - Royal Abodes. - Palace of the Prince of Orange. - Prince Auguste d'Ahremberg's Gallery of Pictures. - English Ridicule of America
    105
      
    LETTER X.
      
    School System in America. - American Maps. - Leave Brussels. - Louvain. - Quarantine. - Liége. - The Soleil d'Or. - King Leopold and Brother. - Royal Intermarriages. - Environs of Liége. - The Cathedral and the Church of St. Jacques. - Ceremonies of Catholic Worship. - Churches of Europe. - Taverns of America. - Prayer in the Fields. - Scott's error as regards the Language spoken in Liége. - Women of Liége. - Illumination in honour of the King
    112
      
    LETTER XI.
      
    Leave Liége. - Banks of the Meuse. - Spa. - Beautiful Promenades. - Robinson Crusoe. - The Duke of Saxe-Cobourg. - Former magnificence of Spa. - Excusions in the vicinity. - Departure from Spa. - Aix-la-Chapelle. - The Cathedral. - The Postmaster's Compliments. - Berghem. - German Enthusiasm. - Arrival at Cologne.
    122
      
    LETTER XII.
      
    The Cathedral of Cologne. - The eleventhousand Virgins. - The Skulls of the Magi-House in which Rubens was born. - Want of Cleanliness in Cologne. - Journey resumed. - The Drachenfels. - Romantic Legend. - A Convent converted into an Inn. - Its Solitude. - A Night in it. - A Storm. - A Nocturnal Adventure. - Grim Figures. - An apparition. - The Mystery dissolved. - Palace of the Kings of Austrasia. - Banks of the Rhine. - Coblentz. - Floating Bridges. - Departure from Coblentz. - Castle of the Ritterstein. - Visitto it. - Its Furniture. - The Ritter Saal. - Tower of the Castle. - Anachronisms
    131
      
    LETTER XIII.
      
    Ferry across the Rhine. - Village of Rudesheim. - The Hinterhausen Wine. - Drunkenness. - Neanpolitan curiosity respecting America. - The Rhenish Wines enumerated. - Ingelheim. - Johannisberg. - Conventual Wine. - Unseasonable praise. - House and Grounds of Johannisberg. - State of Nassau. - Palace at Biberich. - The Gardens. - Wiesbaden. - Its public Promenade. - Frankfort on the Maine
    157
      
    LETTER XIV.
      
    Boulevards of Frankfort. - Political Disturbances in the town. - Le petit Savoyard. - Distant glimpse of Homberg. - Darmstadt. - The Bergestrasse. - Heidelberg. - Noisy Market-place. - The Ruins and Gardens. - An old Campaigner. - Valley of the Neckar. - Heilbronn. - Ludwigsberg. - Its Palace. - The late Queen of Wurtemberg. - The Birthplace of Schiller. - Comparative claims of Schiller and Goethe. - Stuttgart. - Its Royal Residences. - The Princess of Hechingen. - German Kingdoms. - TheKing and Queen of Wurtemberg. - Sir Walter Scott. - Tubingen. - Ruin of a Castle of middle ages. - Hechingen. - Village of Bahlingen. - The Danube. - The Black Forest. - View from a mountain on the frontier of Baden. - Enter Switzerland
    167
      
    LETTER XV.
      
    A Swiss Inn. - Cataract of the Rhine. - Canton of Zurich. - Town of Zurich. - Singular Concurrence. - Formidable Ascent. - Exquisite View. - Einsledeln. - The Convent. - "Par exemple.". - Shores of the Lake of Zug. - The Chemin Creux. - Water Excursion to Alpnach. - Lake of Lungern. - Lovely Landscape. - Effects of Mists on the prospect. - Natural Barometer. - View from the Brunig. - Enter the great Canton of Berne. - An Englishman's Politics. -Our French Companion. - The Giesbach. - Mountain Music. - Lauterbrunnen. - Grindewald. - Rising of the Waters in 1830. - Anecdote. - Excursion on the Lake to Thoun.
    183
      
    LETTER XVI.
      
    Conspiracy discovered. - The Austrian Government and the French Carlists. - Walk to La Lorraine. - Our old friend"Turc." - Conversation with M. W - View of the Upper Alps. - Jerome Bonaparte at La Lorraine. - The Bears of Berne. - Scene on the Plateforme
    198
      
    LETTER XVII.
      
    Our Voiturier and his Horses. - A Swiss Diligence. - Morat. - Inconstancy of feeling. - Our Route to Vévey. - Lake Leman. - Difficulty in hiring a House. -"Mon Repos", engaged for a month. - Vévey. - The great Square. - The Town-house. - Environs of Vévey. - Summer Church and Winter Church.- Clergy of the Canton. - Population of Vaud. - Elective qualifications of Vaud
    205
      
    LETTER XVIII.
      
    Neglect of the Vine in America. - Drunkenness in France. - Cholera especially fatal to Drunkards. - The Soldier's and the Sailor's Vice. - Sparkling Champagne and Still Champagne. - Excessive Price of these Wines in America. - Burgundy. - Proper soil for the Vine. - Anecdote. - Vines of Vévey. - The American Fox-grape
    218
      
    LETTER XIX.
      
    The Leman Lake. - Excursions on it. - The coast of Savoy. - Grandeur and beauty of the Rocks. - Sunset. - Evening Scene. - American Families residing on the banks of the Lake. - Conversation with a Vévaisan on the subject of America. - The Nullification Question. - America misrepresented in Europe. - Rowland Stephenson in the United States. - Unworthy arts to bring America into disrepute. - Blunders of Europe in respect of America. - The Kentuckians. - Foreign Associations in the States. - Illiberal Opinions of many Americans. - Prejudices
    226
      
    LETTER XX.
      
    The Equinox. - Storm on the Lake. - Chase of a little Boat. - Chateau of Blonay. - Drive to Lausanne. - Mont Benon. - Trip to Geneva in the Winkelried. - Improvements in Geneva. - Russian Travellers. - M. Pozzo di Borgo. - Table d'hôte. - Extravagant Affirmations of a Frenchman. - Conversation with a Scotchman. - Amercican Duels. - Visit at a SwissCountry-house.- English Customs affected in America. -Social Inetercourse in the United States. -Difference between a European and an American Foot and Hand. - Violent Gale. - Sheltered position of Vévey. - Promenade. - Picturesque View. - The great Square. - Invitation. - Mountain Excursion. - An American Lieutenant. - Anecdote. - Extensive Prospect. - Chateau of Glayrole
    240
      
    LETTE XXI.
      
    Embark in the Winkelried. - Discussion with an Englishman. - The Valais. - Free Trade. - The Drance. - Terrible Inundation. - Liddes. - Mountain Scenery. - A Moutain Basin. - Dead-houses. - Melaneholy Spectacle. - Approach of Night. - Desolate Region. - Convent of the Great St. Bernard. - Our Reception there. - Unhealthiness of the Situation. - The Superior. - Conversation during Supper. - Coal-mine on the Moutain. - Night in the Convent
    253
      
    LETTER XXII.
      
    Sublime Desolation. - A Morning Walk. - The Col. - A Lake. - Site ofa Roman Temple. - Enter Italy. - Dreary Monotony. - Return to Convent. - Tasteless Character of the Building. - Its Origin and Purposes. - The Dead-house. - Dogs of St. Bernard. - The Chapel. -Desaix interred here. - Fare of St. Bernard, and Deportment of the Monks. - Leave the Convent. - Our Guide's Notion of the Americans. - Passage of Napoleon across the Great St. Bernard. - Similar Passages in former times. - Transport of Artillery up the Precipices. - Napoleon's perilous Accident. - Return to Vévey
    263
      
    LETTER XXIII.
      
    Democracy in America and in Switzerland. - European Prejudices. - Influence of Property. - Nationality of the Swiss. - Want of Local Attachments in Americans. - Swiss Republicanism. - Political Crusade against America. - Affinites between America and Russia. - Feeling of the European Powers towards Switzerland
    271
      
    LETTER XXIV.
      
    The Swiss Mountain Passes. - Excursion in the neighbourhood of Vévey. - Castle of Blonay. - View from the Terrace. - Memory and Hope. - Great Antiquity of Blonay. - The Knight's Hall. - Prospect from the Balcony. - Departure from Blonay. - A Modern Chateau. - Travelling on Horseback. - News from America. - Dissolution of the Union predicted. - The Prussian Polity. - Despotism in Prussia
    278
      
    LETTER XXV.
      
    Controversy respecting America. - Conduct of American Diplomatists. - Attachés to American Legations. - Unworthy State of Public Opinion in America
    287
      
    LETTER XXVI.
      
    Approach of Winter. - The Livret. - Regulations respecting Servants. - Servants in America. - Governments of the different Cantons of Switzeland. - Engagement of Mercenaries. - Population of Switzerland. - Physical Peculiarities of the Swiss. - Women of Switzerland. - Mrs. Trollope and the American Ladies. - Affected manner of speaking in American Women. - Patois in America. - Peculiar manner of Speaking at Vévey. - Swiss Cupidity
    294
      
    LETTER XXVII.
      
    Departure from Vévey. - Passage down the Lake. - Arival at Geneva. - Purchase of Jewellery. - Leave Geneva. - Ascent of the Jura. - Alpine Views. - Rudeness at the Custom-house. - Smuggling. - A Smuggler detected. - The second Custom-house. - Final View of Mont Blanc. - Re-enter France. - Our luck at the Post-house in Dôle. - A Scocth Traveller. - Nationality of the Scoth. - Road towards Troyes. - Source of the Seine
    304
      
    LETTER XXVIII.
      
    Miserable Inn. - A French Bed. - Free Trade. - French Relics. - Cross Roads. - Arrival at Lagrange. - Reception by General Lafayette. - The Nullification Strife. - Conversation with Lafayette. - His Opinion as to a Separation of the Union in America. - The Slave Question. - Stability of the Union. - Style of living at La Grange. - Pap. - French Manners, and the French Cuisine. - Departure from La Grange. - Return to Paris
    312
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